![]() ![]() To use it, you'll first need to set your camera up. I did a bunch of tests and figured out what I thought the best settings were in camera and then developed a new custom LUT, and I can get an image that is virtually identical to our original S-log2 LUT but without the color blocking. If we can record the color saturation as close to normal as possible and do a less aggressive color adjustment in post, that should fix the problem. Since the goal of shooting in log is to maximize dynamic range, most of the benefit comes from the contrast, not the color. So we mentioned earlier that log footage records images with low contrast and low saturation and that you add both back in in post. But we have a fix for this, and hats off to Dunna Did It for this idea. With Sony in particular, blocky green and magenta color noise in the shadows can be a big issue. One of the major issues with shooting with consumer 8 bit cameras and using log footage is that there are side effects when making massive color adjustments in post, and what i mean by that is it can bring out artifacts. Once you have your LUT applied, you can do your primary color correction by fine tuning your exposure and white balance and really get the clip to a neutral starting point for your color grade So if I have a super high dynamic range scene and the LUT completely obliterates the shadows or highlights, I can make adjustments in the basic panel that can save this information. And that's because any adjustments I make in the basic corrections panel above it will happen BEFORE the LUT is applied. Using Lumetri color panel, I'll apply our Original S-Log2 LUT in the creative tab rather than the basic corrections section. 709 LUT and any primary color correction and then a second adjustment layer for my grade, which can be applied to usually the whole edit. In Premiere I usually will create two adjustment layers, one for my log to rec. We use Adobe Premiere Pro to edit but most software should have a way to apply a LUT file. Just remember that +2.0 is the highest the meter will read so if you're actually at +5, ti will just blink +2.0 which can be confusing so aiming for 1.7 is usually a safer bet and of course it if you're plus 1.3 vs plus 2.0, it's not going to be make that much of a difference. Also, you get pretty good at knowing what looks correct after you shoot log for a while. If you want to get fancy, you can get an 18% gray card and spot meter it and adjust the exposure that way but I find the camera's "multi metering mode" actually does a pretty good job assessing most scenes. This is to keep your shadows clean and as noise free as possible. There's a lot of people who have done deep dives into why but generally you should try to expose your image about 2 stops OVER what your meter is telling you. Once your camera is setup, you need to consider how to expose your image. If you shoot with these settings, our free Original S-log2 utility LUT will work for you. I also stopped relying on my histogram, which was hard because as a photographer, that was my gold standard, but I find in log modes, your image can be very over exposed but the histogram can be deceivingly central making you think you have a properly exposed image. That will tell me what is definitely clipped, but I don't gauge my exposure by the zebras I more so just use the meter and eyeball it. I also set my zebras to the clip point of whatever profile you're using so 106 for S-Log2. This will help you gauge the exposure and lighting of your shot which can be kinda hard to do with a really low contrast log image. We leave this on auto which will basically normalize how the footage looks on the back of your camera but will not affect the log footage being recorded. One other setting we use is the gamma assist function. Either way, this has nothing to do with shooting in log, but it's a setting you should be aware of. A lot of people would rather add sharpening back in post, but I find leaving it at 0 looks fine and quite frankly does a better job than I can do in post. ![]() ![]() The only thing we choose to change in the profile is the detail level from the default -7 to 0. This should automatically set the gamma to S-Log2, the color mode to S-Gamut, and saturation to 0. Go into your menus, find the picture profile section and choose PP7. If you're using any Sony consumer camera that isn't the A7S3, then you should probably choose S-Log2 which will work with one of our two S-Log2 LUTs. So we have cameras that fall in both of those categories, so we have developed LUTs for both S-Log2 and S-Log3. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |